Day 3: Ikebukuro, Asakusa, New Year's Eve 2009

JR Rail Pass
Today is the last day of the year, the 31st of Dec 2008. We first went to Ueno station in the morning to get our JR Passes. Apparently, only foreigners are allowed to purchase this pass. It is actually quite powerful. Unlimited rides on JR operated trains and certain Shinkansen lines (minus the Nozomi line) for either 7 or 14 days, or a whole month. We bought the pass for whole of Japan (28300 yen). You can get this pass at any JR station information counter, but you have to order online ahead, and bring your passport with you. We're going from Tokyo to Kyoto, Hakone and back. So this works out to be a lot cheaper than if we buy the tickets separate. All the Japanese we encountered on this trip, including Atsunobu and Koki were terribly impressed with this magic card. The JR Pass is probably the best pass in the universe.

Meeting Mieko at Ikebukuro
After settling the tickets, Charlene and I took the Yamanote line and went to meet an old friend of her's from Susan Garnsey's lab - Mieko Ueno. We met up in Ikebukuro for lunch and coffee. We had hot pot - cod fish, meat balls, and a kimchi and pork. It was a great time to catch up with a friend, we had fun talking and finding out what was going on in each others' lives. Ikebukuro is between Ueno Station and Shinjuku, and it is also a center for shopping and business. Anyway, after coffee we headed back to Ueno to meet up with the rest again.

The Walk to Asakusa
Charlene and I came here before as well. But it was again nice to come back to a familiar place. Asakusa is the area where the Kaminarimon is as well as Sensoji Temple. Koki brought us around here the last time. He also told us the story about the lightning and thunder gods I think...behind the Kaminarimon, and also the goddess of mercy statue behind the Sensoji Temple. But I forget exactly what it is. My memory is not the best in the universe. This time, we spent half a day there, and discovered some new things. We walked from Ueno station to Kaminarimon (30min).

Because it is New Year's Eve, there was an extra amount of crowd around the Kaminarimon/Sensoji Temple area. The shops in front of the temple were all open in their full glory. We were so distracted by the little tidbits from on the way, and also the area before Sensoji Temple - tempura, Mr Donut, Japanese pickles, red bean snacks of all kinds, hot sweet sake, rice crackers, little trinkets. We saw Ryokan Shigetsu again around the area. It is still there and doing well. We were glad about that, and happy to see it. And just when we made it to the Sensoji Temple, we discovered that the New Year scene involves also a night market around the temple. There was stewed radishes (oden), yakitori, grilled clams, fish, caramelized fruit, hot sake. So many things to eat. We hung around the Temple area, beautiful crescent moon. And as we were going back, we had more beef stew and hot sake.

After walking around the most awesome temple in the universe and the most crazy night market in the universe, we caught the train on the Yamanote line, the most amazing line in the universe, and arrived back at Ueno house, and watched the Red/White show usher in the New Year. This show, called Kohaku Uta Gassen in Japanese, is always showed at the end of the year as part of the celebration, and traditional Japanese families watch it as it showcases the best music of the year. So in most senses, it is the best music variety show in the universe. At midnight the Temples all over Japan start ringing their bells (108 times, representing the number of human sins and desires), and the people rushing to make their wishes at the temples. In Japan, it seems, New Year is celebrated first with a family dinner, then going to the temple to observe the bell ringing, and praying for blessings for the New Year. A huge crowd. Police had to hold them back for order. They are the most policing policemen in the universe.

Have the happiest new year in the universe!

Day 2: Tsukiji Market, Ginza, Tsukishima

The wet and wild Tsukiji Market
Today, we met Atsunobu, who was our guide for the entire day! Thanks Atsunobu! It was a wonderful time. Charlene's parents were impressed out of their boots by our most illustrious tour guide, who is the best tour guide in the universe. We started off early morning and headed to Tsukiji Fish Market. Our adventure began in the inner market, where it was all wet and smelt of the sea. Tons and tons of people buying food for the coming New Year celebration at home. Huge tuna as big as a cow! Live fish, octopus, sea cucumber, prawns, salmon, and all kinds of colorful, wonderful products of the sea. Fish heads, fish heads, rolly polly fish heads. Fishermen slopping around. Fish slapping everywhere. Octopus suckers staring at you. Puffer fish bloating up. Delicious! Tsukiji fish market is the best fish market in the universe. Here's a clip to show you the flipping fish fantasia:

There were many opportunities to sample food along the streets as well, all kinds of Japanese pickles, seaweeds. Nuts and berries. And an Okinawa donut. Next, the outer market. Ramen, donburi, the first Yoshinoya (picture shown). Almost all the sushi shops had long lines, but we finally had lunch in a sushi restaurant that had a shorter line. Great fresh fish as well as the famous tamago that people were lining up all the way just to get a taste, and boy, it was good indeed. It was the best tamago in the universe.

Walking through Ginza
After lunch, we walked towards Ginza district and stopped at various places along the way. Ginza is kinda like the Magnificent Mile in Chicago or Orchard Road in Singapore. But of course, it is the best Ginza in the universe. A Hongan Bhuddist temple was a long the way. Hongan apparently is a very powerful association that was politically involved. Historically, they were the ones that the shogun used to control people through religion. This is according to our best tour guide in the universe. We also passed a Mac store, an An Pan shop, Itoya (stationary shop). We spent a while in the 7 storey Itoya building. Because this was the best stationary in the universe.

Tsukishima the Moon Island
Next, we took the train to Tsukishima area for a monjayaki and okonomiyaki dinner. Here, the streets are famous for their monja shops. In fact, it is called monja street. Monja is the best food in the universe. It is made from starchy gluten, and is fried on a teppanyaki with vegetables, seafood, or other ingredients. Like chai tao kuay. We also had okonomiyaki, which is like a really thick and rich omelette. And also fried noodles - yakisoba. It turns out that our best tour guide in the universe is also the best chef in the universe. Here's what I mean:

Finally, we walked across the Sumida river and went to the St Luke's hotel observatory for a night view of the city. At the end of our day, we parted with Atsunobu, and headed back for Ueno.

Thanks again for an awesome time Atsunobu!

Day 1: Tokyo - Harajuku, Shimokitazawa, Jiyugoaka

The Meiji Shrine in Harajuku
We started the day in Harajuku, where the Meiji Shrine is. I've been here before but it was nice to be back in a familiar place in a foreign land. This is a shrine dedicated to the emperor, who is also deemed as a deity - Son of Heaven. Many families have special occasions here, like weddings, graduations, funerals. People come here also to pray for good fortune and blessings. You can get talismans and charms for road safety, success in studies and business, and of course, in love. The weather was great and it was a nice walk. The sake and wine that were donated to the emperor are still there. This time though, people were busy preparing for the New Year celebrations coming up soon. Temple staff were carrying props and fixtures everywhere, and stands were being put up so that people can purchase charms on New Year's day, as well as the night food markets.

Shimokitazawa street shops
Next up was Shimokitazawa. Many small shops selling anything from groceries to gifts to furniture. We looked for a Curry place for lunch recommended by a travel magazine, but after going around a few times and double-checking for directions, we concluded that the shop had closed down. This is good advice, ALWAYS buy the latest travel guide, or at least, check online about your facts first. Finally, we had lunch at Popolamama consisting of Italian fusion. Pasta and pizza. It was pretty good. A standard meal that was filling! Afterwards we shopped around more, and then had coffee.

Jiyugaoka
Jiyugaoka in Kanji is Hill of Freedom. But don't be mistaken, nothing is free there. More small shops again, this time with several dessert shops. Crepes along the roadside, the Sweet Forest - a food court that sells all kinds of desserts - cakes, ice-cream, chocolates, jelly, parfaits... After dessert, we had dinner at one of those hole-in-the-wall ramen shops. We were all very full already, but the ramen is always good in Japan. This one was a little oily, but hey, its ramen. Eating ramen in Japan can be very stressful. Everyone has their own place. there is not big table where you can sit together and chat. In fact, you are not supposed to chit-chat. Eat your ramen and get going! But don't forget to shout "Oishi!" because ramen is the best food in the universe.

Getting from here to there

Taking the LEX from Champaign to O'Hare is probably the worst experience in the universe.
This is the view from the back of the LEX (the Lincoln Express). It was crazy! I highly do not recommend the LEX unless you really have no choice. $50 (after tax and tip!). Plus, I hear that the Suburban Express is better. More comfortable for the same price, with newer vehicles. In the LEX, our luggage was dragged out in the trailer outside. The ride was bumpy, it was raining...and leaking! It reminded me of my army days, riding in the dark in the hummer on a mission. Never again! It is not worth it when you can choose your ride. Next on my list of public transport between Chicago and Champaign is the Amtrak.

Having hash browns in O'Hare, Chicago, US.
We finally arrive at O'Hare, Terminal 3, at 6 in the morning. Our flight leaves at 11am! Stupid mid-west weather. We checked-in after a decent wait of about 1 hr, that's good by O'Hare standard. O'Hare is probably the worst airport in the universe. That's just the airport. The people who work in it are probably nice. After passing through the security checkpoint, where we still have to remove our laptops from their covers and take off our shoes, we were in! We navigated to the usual Parklab venue for food while in transit in O'Hare at the Food Court (K Gate area) Macdonald's. And there I am, with my big breakfast combo of which the only thing I really like are the hash browns and scrambled eggs. Macdonald's coffee is probably the worst coffee in the universe.

Arriving at Narita, Tokyo
We flew via American Airlines. American is probably close to the worst airline in the universe, next to United, which is even closer. The worst airline in the universe probably is illegal. There is no free alcohol in flight. That's probably why. And the food is like the kids happy meal in a family restaurant - both in terms of size and quality. But the redeeming point here is the destination - Tokyo. Why else would you pay for this? Well, technically, I didn't pay. This was a mileage claimed trip. After a 13 hr flight, we are at Narita Airport waiting for Charlene's family to arrive. Charlene is having her afternoon tea while we wait. That's two espressos and an ice cream cone which when combined correctly equals Affogato! Narita airport is probably the best airport in the universe.

From Narita to Ueno Station
Charlene's family arrives at 5.30pm. Everyone is happy. And its great to see family again! We took the Keisei Limited Express (1920 yen pax) from Narita Terminal 2 to Ueno Station in the northwest region of Tokyo. Its a direct train and you can purchase tickets directly at the counter in front of the arrival area of the terminal. After a 70 min train ride, we arrive and check into Ueno House (Taiwanese run long-term stay). We appear a little dark in the photo, but that's because my camera is not the best camera in the universe. Its a nice place for long-term stay. We will be staying there for four days and with six people, its definitely a whole lot cheaper than any hotel.

We left our luggage and quickly head out for dinner nearby at a restaurant called Yayoiken. The place, like any standard Japanese small restaurant, had an interesting way of ordering your food. Its basically like a soda dispenser, only it dispenses food tickets. You put in your money, and then push the buttons that indicated the meal you want. A ticket comes out and you hand it to the waiter. And in a few minutes, your food comes out of the kitchen, onto the table, and into your tummy. One thing I have to say about Japanese restaurants...they are haiyai!

After a fulfilling meal, we go back to our apartment to rest from the day of traveling and get ready for the exciting journey tomorrow!

Departure Eve

Getting ready for the flight to Tokyo tomorrow. We just called for a taxi ride pick up (CU Taxi) at 5.30am. Then as we were packing, the phone rings informing us that our flight from Champaign to Dallas had just been canceled. Probably due to bad weather. So we called American, and they informed us that we had been re-ticketed to take the 7.15am from Champaign to Chicago, and from Chicago to Tokyo, arriving at 3.15pm. Whew!

It is Friday night, and there is dense fog all around.

Dinner

We had the bunch come over yesterday. This was the menu:

Steamed Whole Grass Carp
spring onions
ginger
white wine
salt
olive oil
grass carp
cilantro

Steamed Prawns
brandy
prawns

Curried Lamb
lamb
tumeric powder
cumin seeds
lemon
garlic

Vegetable Clay Pot
tofu
cauliflower
shiitake mushroom
carrots

Boiled Kai Lan
kai lan
oyster sauce
garlic

Lotus Root Soup
lotus root
pork ribs
squid
peanuts
red dates

No pictures leh.

Evolution of Hope

Hope in a few things,
Hope in nothing,
Hope in everything,
Hope in one thing.

SFN Conference in DC 2008

Went to the conference to give my talk. It was, in my opinion, okay only lah. But I guess it was fun to take a break from the regular schedule. I decided that I'm only ok with DC. Not my type of city, but tolerable. Too much political buzz around.

Pictures here: http://travelingjosh.shutterfly.com/2824

Jen and Andy's wedding in NC

Follow the link for pics:
http://travelingjosh.shutterfly.com/2692

We had a great time, drove there for 12 hrs (stopped halfway in London, TN to rest for a night), through the Smokeys, attended the wonderful wedding in Nantahala Valley, spent the night in an old fashioned wood lodge, then drove back another 12 hrs.

A Good Wine

For those who can't see, this is a Blackstone 2006 Syrah. It cost us about $6~8 at Shnuck's. And it was good. I think this will be a standard buy. So far, its one that has stuck. Although that's only because we documented this particular one. This syrah as just the right blend of depth and fruit giving it an all rounded body, which is the way I like it. Goes well with pretty much anything...but then really, any good wine goes well with anything.