Day 7 and 8: Hakone

Ryokan Yuugiriso
Charlene and I have been here before (blog). But we found this ryokan very relaxing and enjoyable, that we came back again. This time with an even bigger crowd! Yuugiriso is located just at the south shore of Lake Ashi. It is a modern ryokan, which means that it has the standard onsen (hot spring bath), tatami floors, yukata, dinner and breakfast service, as well as more western amenities, like bathrooms in each room rather than a public shared one, and other modern conveniences (e.g. TV). No internet though! The point is to relax and be whisked away into a different world.

We checked in and first went for a lake cruise on Lake Ashi, then a walk in the Onshi park nearby. We came back and dipped in the hot spring. That was absolutely relaxing. Then, the dinner was fanstastic, just as we remembered. There is the Yuugiriso plum wine as a starter drink, and this is followed by a wonderful large dinner spread, dessert and coffee/tea. We ate till we could eat no more, and were completely relaxed.

So we drifted off to sleep.

Hakone - Owakudani
The next day, I get up early, and went for another dip in the hot spring again. After this, we had breakfast, which was another fantastic spread! We quickly check-out of the ryokan, and then headed for sight-seeing around the Hakone area. This area is a hot spring area because of the exposed lava, and geothermal structures. The main place to see this is Owakudani National Park. You kind of have to plan ahead for this, because Hakone is a mountain area, so the way to travel is not so obvious. Word of advice, buy the Hakone 2-day visitor pass at the Hakone-Yumoto eki, or the Odawara-eki (whichever you get off the main trains to come to this area). This gives you unlimited rides and entries into most Hakone places of interst. There's the old Hakone rail train, the cable car and the trolleys. You'll have to switch between these to get to Owakudani, but the sight is worth it. On a good day, you might see Mt Fuji.

After successfully going through all the sights, we rushed back to Hakone-Yumoto to get onto the train to Tokyo again, and then on to Narita. Charlene's parents and Mimi were leaving first, so we all sent them off.

Day 6: Kyoto - Nijojo, Soba, and Osaka Fugu

Nijojo Castle and the Nightingale Floor
Finally today, we had to go see the famous Nightingale Floor (uguisubari, wiki, Youtube clip) at Nijojo Castle. We got up early, took the bus and arrived at Nijojo-mae at 10am. We bought tickets and headed into the castle grounds. The castle is huge. And the moat and gardens surrounding it were beautiful. Not long after walking around the area, we hear the beat of drums. We ran towards the sound, and lo and behold, a concert of traditional drums by children. They were really good! Nothing like a good drum beat to get your heart going. As they played, I can imaging the intimidation of drums in the castle, which is mainly a military base. But also, you can feel the rush of the beat as a warrior might, getting ready to fight, brushing aside all hesitation, doubt, and fear. The exhiliration!

After the concert, we walk around more to find the famous floor. And guess what? The entrance to the main castle area was closed because of the New Year holiday! Fantastic isn't it? After three days of by-passing Nijojo in Kyoto, we finally get in, but the floor still remains barred to us. Well, if the floor doesn't want to see us, then we don't want to see it either! We pick ourselves up, and start heading towards the Gion area again to buy some gifts.

The best Soba in the Universe
We took the bus from Nijojo to head towards Gion area. But we stopped in front of Chion Temple (Chion-mae, or 智恩時). It was about lunch time, so we were looking for a lunch place. Getting off the bus, our noses detected a fragrant aroma. Here's a good advice. When hungry, follow your nose. We saw this tiny looking place with just an unassuming entrance, and the smell of good food was coming from there. So we step in, and the restuarant was a small one with only seats enough for about 20. It was mainly a soba restaurant. Our party of 6 had to split up to sit down. Mimi and Peipei sat at the counter area. Me, Charlene and her parents sat at a table which we shared with 3 other older Japanese folks. Through our limited Japanese, we managed to order the most awesome soba noodles I had ever tasted! It was soooooooo good that I would remember this bowl of noodles for the longest time! I have the name card of the place, and if ever I go back to Kyoto, I must eat there.

As I mentioned, we shared our table with 3 others. It turns out, as we sort of tried to communicate, that they were the parents of the owners of the restaurant. We ganbei-ed them. And the father treated Charlene's dad to another bottle of sake! So goooood! Present-o! We slurped the noodles down, I ordered another bowl of oyako-donburi. Did I say? This was the best soba and oyako-don in the universe?!?!?

Fugu in Osaka
After lunch, we continued our shopping in the Gion area. We bought tea, snacks, and all sorts of things as gifts for friends. We then head to Kyoto-eki to take the train to Osaka, where apparently there is a famous fugu restaurant (Zuboraya). Osaka is less than an hour away from Kyoto by express train. We arrive at Zuboraya. You can't miss it. Its got a huge fugu (puffer fish) in front of it. We got our seats, and looked at the menu. Fugu is a delicacy. The prices are also very "delicate". Our experience at this restaurant was a little weird. Here's what I mean. When we were ordering, the waiter who was taking our order (he speaks Mandarin) started rejecting our orders, saying You won't like this, or That is not nice. We were a little shocked that any restaurant would tell its guests that their food is not nice! So we ended up ordering the most basic of all (because all his recommendations were really expensive - 5000yen average!) - fugu-nabe. It was not so delicious...but we are told that's because fugu meat is very light...very delicate. Not my kind of food at that price!

Well, we had good soba today, and we had a good drum show. Head back to Kyoto!

Day 5: Kyoto - Kinkakuji, Nijojo-mae, Gion, Kyoto Eki

Kinkakuji, the Golden Shrine
Kinkakuji is a shrine covered in gold. We took the bus there today. You can get the day-pass from any bus driver in Kyoto. Bus rides are a little different. You get on at the back door, and get out the front door, and pay as you leave. The ride was extremely crowded, so that we were completely squashed...it was very warm and cozy that way! Kinkakuji has a 200 yen entrance fee. We spent the morning there strolling in a cloudy, light drizzle. There was still a crowd even though it is a Saturday and the 2nd day of the New Year. Someone famous has his remains there, somewhere. Some general...can't quite remember the name. The temple is surrounded by a lake so there is quite a nice view of the temple. There are three stories, the first floor is made of wood, second and third has gold, and have different designs. On the way down the hill, there were samples of pickles and nuts again. That's the wonderful thing here, samples before you buy, so you know what you are getting. And it all tastes so good after a walk up and down the hill.

A restaurant called "Now"
We tried to eat a famous all-you-can-eat seafood buffet place, but that was closed for New Year holidays. So instead, we had lunch at a place near Kinkakuji that was called "Now". I had soba, Charlene had tonkatsu. Food was good, and again, was served really fast. I don't have the website for this restaurant, but it is along the main road just outside Kinkakuji, about 5 min walk to the right when facing out. The seafood place is along the way. I am told that people actually go back there to eat more than once per visit to Kyoto. We will have to try this next time we come.

Shopping area in Teramachi Street
We wanted to see Nijojo Castle, but found out that ticket sales close at 3pm. We'll try again tomorrow. So instead we ended up in Teramachi area, which is the shopping area just before Gion, where we were yesterday. Lots of small tidbits and shops, including Takashimaya and Daimaru. We bought some donuts made from soy beans too. Light taste, sweet, and warm, with nice tender crunchiness. These are probably the best donuts in the universe.

Ramen street dinner at Kyoto Station
It is dinner time and we head toward Kyoto Eki. On the 11th floor of the Isetan building there is a whole food court called The Cube with of all kinds of ramen shops. We take the escalators up in the cold chilly wind, but fantastic night view of Kyoto tower. Finally we arrive at piping hot ramen with chasu! As with any good place to eat in Japan, there is a line, and the ramen shops are all tiny, with minimal seating space. The point is to eat and go. Nothing like a hot bowl of ramen after a walk in the cold.

Day 4: First Day of 2009, Kyoto

Tokyo to Kyoto on the Shinkansen
Kyoto, the greatest city in the universe! We took the Shinkansen using our JR Pass, which allows us to travel on most Shinkansen lines (excludes the Nozomi line). The bullet train goes at 300 kph, is absolutely quiet, absolutely clean, and absolute the best train in the universe. We had our bento sets along the way as well. Which includes rice, sushi, grilled eel (or unagi), and pickles. The bento set is cold, or at least it is not heated, but it tastes great. Along the way, we pass Mt Fuji on the right. Mt Fuji sightings are notoriously erratic, because legend has it that she is a shy one - sometimes she'll let you see, sometimes she won't. Since its a two hour ride, we set down to writing postcards to friends and family. Postcards were bought in Shimokitazawa, Jiyugaoka and Ginza.

Our Kyoto stay at Tenshi-Tukinuke
Our apartment in Kyoto was Tenshi-Tukinuke, owned by Nishimura-san. The place is nice and quaint. Two-story with tatami living room and a small view garden on the first floor. The toilet bath area has a window also looking out into the garden, giving you an almost onsen like experience while you shower. The second floor is the sleeping area which is spacious enough to contain three of us. Microwave, hot water boiler, tea, coffee, toiletries all provided. Price is around about 5000 yen per person. The location is on Matsubara ji, between Gojoji and Shijoji (5th and 4th roads), close to Gion area by bus number 50. Nishimura-san is a very pleasant person and well versed in the area. He picked us up from the Kyoto Eki and introduced us to the facilities. He also provided plenty of tour information like bus times, places of interest etc. Do contact him!

First Day of 2009 at Gion Area
After settling in, we set out for more best adventures in the universe. Kyoto, of course, is known for its temples and tradition. So more temples, and more post-New Year crowd! It was already pretty late, so went to Yasaka shrine. There were already a lot of people there at around 5pm. The night food markets were out, the temple was at full blast. So more wonderful yakitori, oden and hot sake.

After the temple, we later took a short walk around the traditional district around Gion, where geishas dart in and out. Although we didn't see many owing to the late night and new year's congregation at the temple. After that, we had a nice dinner at a place near where we live that allows you to choose your dishes. I forget what its called, but we had various types of food, including of course, oden.

Its been a long but amazing day. Back in our apartment, we got rested and ready for the next day, which promises to reveal more in the daylight. Happy New Year!